What does Everest Base Camp sound like?

April 20, 2013

Rest Day at Everest Base Camp

SpO2 = 82  RHR = 76

I am thinking of all my friends at the Bellingham Boys & Girls Club this morning. First of all, you are all AWESOME! (high five someone near you). Secondly, I know I owe a couple games of foosball to a few of you and I am hoping you are working on your skilz so we can settle, once and for all, who is the King Mondo Foosball Dominator of the free world when I get back. 

I want to take you on a tour of Everest Base Camp today. But I thought it might be fun let the sounds lead us. So close your eyes (I assume one of the equally awesome staff members is reading this to you) (Staff member should high five someone near by) and try to imagine what comes next. 

It is early morning, and we can hear snow sliding off our tent. Normally it is too cold to snow at Everest Base Camp (EBC), but a warm spell has settled in. There is bird singing from the top of a nearby rock pile. We peek outside the tent to see it. This bird looks a lot like a Robin.  Aside from the big wooly yaks, there aren’t many animals around EBC, so this is special. The snow has covered all the tents scattered among the giant piles of rock and dirt here. It is very peaceful. 

We can hear a gas cooker working over in the cook’s tent. He is already putting together breakfast. Then a soft wampf wampf wampf starts moving up the valley toward us. It gets louder and faster as the sound moves closer. It is a helicopter coming to EBC. As it lands a football field away, the powerful rotors stir up the fresh fallen snow, scattering it in whirling white clouds about the camp. We look out from a crack in the tent door and see two people climb on board the helicopter. Then it is gone. It is probably taking a sick Climber to the lower elevations where he can get better. He will be alright. 

This is a special day. Today we will inflate the palm tree we have packed all the way from Bellingham. We remove the packaging and start breathing into the colorful plastic decoration. Pthhhhhhhhh, Pthhhhhhhhh, Pthhhhhhhhhh. It doesn’t take long to inflate, and we don’t even feel dizzy because the air is thin up here at 17,500 feet. After anchoring the palm tree down next to our tent, we walk toward the dining tent to get a cup of cocoa. The snow crunches beneath our feet. A big piece of ice breaks away from the hillside and rumbles down the hill. As we pass by one tent we can hear a man talking to his family on a phone. He sounds happy-sad. You know, like when you are so happy sometimes you cry a little. 

As we pass by the green communications tent little bursts of radio talk emerge from it. It sounds like there are climbers moving up to higher camps on Everest and the staff is keeping track of everything. Long strings of prayer flags flutter overhead throughout camp. The Sherpa people believe the prayers written on these flags are carried by the wind and bless everyone that wind touches. All of these strings of flags come together at a Buddhist alter in the center of our camp. We can hear the soft chanting of one of the Sherpas as he burns juniper branches at the alter. The smell is wonderful.  

There is no one in the dining tent yet, but a tiny propane heater is hissing quietly at the far end of the long table we all eat at. The table is cluttered with tea, cocoa, and other drink mixes. There are also boxes of various cookies and biscuits. We can see our breath when we exhale. It is very cold in the tent. So we sit at the end next to the heater and pour hot water from one of the thermos containers, then mix in the cocoa. We use more cocoa mix than we normally would because we are hoping the sweet taste will help us forget about the cold. We know this is probably silly reasoning but we do it anyway. 

Soon the tent fills with other members of our climbing team and a happy chatter seems to chase the cold away. We talk about how we slept, what we will do with our day, and funny things we have seen or heard.  We did not know each other a month ago, but now we are good good friends. It feels like summer camp.  The cook beats on a tin pan to bring any stragglers to breakfast, then starts serving hot spam with potato wedges and egg omelette. It tastes good. 

Lobuche Climb

High Camp on Lobuche

April 16, 2013

Return to Lobuche Base Camp: Elev 15,800 ft

I arranged for breakfast an hour earlier than was scheduled so a small band of us could spend an hour using the WiFi in Gorak Shep, in route to Lobuche Base Camp. This worked out pretty well. Though the $9/hour charge was a bit steep, there was plenty of band width in the early morning hours and  we were able to upload photos and post to blogs, etc. 

Being a cloudy day, the winds were cold as they swept up the Khumbu Valley. But the weather broke for a short period and Ty and I stretched out with our packed lunches in a meadow near a glacier. Others in our party found this scene inviting and joined us. The skies grew dark again as we finished eating, and we all set out along the trail wearing fortified layers. By the time we arrived at Lobuche Base Camp we were all quite chilled. 

I immediately began setting up my sleeping kit, consisting of a mat, inflatable air mattress, and sleeping bag. But before crawling in, I decided to take a dose of cold medication.  Finding the tin foil backing to be quite impenetrable, I pawed through my scattered belongings for my folding knife. My cold numb hands possessed enough dexterity to liberate the pills, but not enough to hold onto the knife. “Pooooooooooooof,” said my air mattress as the the knife fell point first into it. “S#&t,” I exclaimed, knowing one of my few comforts had just been destroyed at my own hands. Having no better ideas, I crawled into my down sleeping bag, on top of my sad flat mattress.  “I can fix it tomorrow,” I thought as I recalled the repair kit that came with the air mattress. “This will only cost me one night.” I started to feel bad for reacting the way I had over something so small. 

April 17, 2013

Climb to Lobuche High Camp: Elev 17,500

I drug my miserable air mattress out of the tent and examined it’s wound. Mingma, ever attentive, came over to wish me a good morning. I told him the story of what had happened to the mattress, leaving out my expletive. He studied the hole. He studied the mattress. Mingma’s passive facial expression is one of quiet wisdom. I imagined he was about to share some time tested Sherpa anecdote that spoke to such circumstances in life’s condition. Then he looked up at me and said “S#&t.”

We enjoyed a leisurely morning packing the climbing gear we would need for our attempt on Mt Lobuche; Crampons, ice axe, harness, heavy clothing, and various pieces of mountaineering hardware.  The team then set out for high camp on Lobuche, 2,000 feet above us. 

Without the benefit of a group dining tent, we all gathered in a loose circle while our cook ladled out steaming bowls of Sherpa Stew from a large pot. I thought of taking my bowl back to the tent Ty and I shared, but this somehow felt impolite. I must assume others felt the same as no one left our shivering collective. But all bets were off when snow started to fall, with team members turning on a heal while casting a “good night” over one shoulder. 

Ty and I arranged our gear for the 3:00 a.m. start, then dug down into our sleeping bags. We spoke in muffled voices for the next twenty minutes, quizing each other on who was the all time best Rock and Roll Drummer, Vocalist, Guitarist, zzzzzzzzzz

April 18, 2013

High Camp Lobuche to Summit and descend to Base Camp

We woke at 3 a.m. and set about executing the tasks prepared for the prior evening. I opened up a packet of hand warmers and set them out to start activating. I dressed in my layers, harness and climbing boots. Then I joined the others forming a headlamp circle around our cook. He had prepared porridge, cheese omelets, and hot coffee. I hastily ate a bit of each, then returned to our tent. There was more to do, more to fret over before leaving for the summit and I was determined to not be the last one ready. 

I was the last one ready. Our Guide, Max, made the rounds checking on each climber. “You are going to sweat like a pig,” he counseled upon examining my many warm layers of clothing. His recommendation was a scant combination the likes of which one might wear when flying a kite. Accepting his guidance, I began removing the offending items in what must have looked like some kind of mountaineers burlesque show. The entire team set out without me, but Mingma stayed back to help. I was ten minutes back by the time we finally got going. 

I caught up with my compadres and settled in as the last headlamp in a long line. There were fourteen climbing clients, our Guides Max and Jenny, and numerous Sherpa embedded among us. I passed a few team members here and there, eventually catching up with Ty. We climbed together the remainder of night. Shortly after dawn Ty told me to move on past him, so I did. I did not intend to set an aggressive pace, but it felt so good to finally be climbing that I just kept going. My crampons bit into the steep ice face with satisfying purchase. I  passed climber after climber until I found myself leading the climb with three members of the Air Force team. We reached the summit, 19,600 feet,  about 8 a.m. with clear skies and no wind. I should point out that this was not a race and indeed there are downsides to climbing quickly.  But I had held back from using my high gear at the urging of our Guides and just had to let it run to assure myself I was still carrying it with me. 

Myself on the summit of Lobuche. Everest in the background.

April 19, 2013

Gorak Shep: Elev 16,900

SpO2 = 84  RHR = 90

This morning we said goodbye to the Trekkers who have been a part of our team up to this point. They now start down the Khumbu valley, descending into summer. Us climbers are returning to Everest Base Camp (EBC). 

I took a long last look at Lobuche Base Camp as we wended the traverse to the west. This was a good camp, a clean camp, a place where only our people resided.  I knew I would not likely see this place again. I studied the massive rock face that stands over the camp, the stratified layers standing on end with snow capping each. It would be scary as hell if it were not so beautiful. Which is to say it is not dissimilar to many of the sorority girls I dated in college.  

Tomorrow is a rest day at EBC. The plan is to make a short exploratory trip into the ice fall the following day. I will post when I am able. 

The next several days

Approaching Everest Base Camp

Dear Readers, 

Internet access has proven more challenging than I had thought   ...which is to say our satellite BGAN system at Everest Base Camp is very nearly useless. I will continue to blog this adventure, but it will likely come to you in batches of 5 days at a time as I am able to make the 1 hour hike down to  Gorak Shep. 

All the best, 

Dave

April 10, 2013

Lobuche Base Camp: Elev 15,800 ft. 

SpO2 = 86  RHR = 81

We set out from Phariche under overcast skies, with a cold headwind that encouraged most of us to add a layer of clothing. I had slept well and felt happy to be moving on, but for some reason my energy level was low. This might have bothered me in earlier years; might have enlisted my ego to drive hard for the sake of keeping up with the fastest Trekkers. No more. I reminded myself there will be good days and bad in the course of the two month span of this expedition. The most important thing is to not beat myself up. Take it day by day. I credit my good friend Phil Drowley for this perspective. I hung back with the Trekkers keeping a more casual pace and had a perfectly enjoyable day. 

We arrived at Lobuche Base Camp around 1p.m. Our advance Sherpa Team had already set up the tents, the kitchen, a dining tent and drop toilets. A few years ago we would have stayed in the village of Lobuche, but expedition organizers deemed the conditions there intolerable. Since then IMG has opted to create their own village away from town in a low depression sheltered from the wind.  This allows for better control of the circumstances contributing to food safety. By all accounts this has been a success, and one could easily meter a lift in morale among expedition members as we settled in. 

We enjoyed a hearty lunch made all the more delectable by virtue of being less worrisome. There were thermoses of hot tea, coffee, and citrus drink. The kitchen staff brought us warm moist towels scented with menthol to clean up before the meal, then served hot dogs on fresh baked buns, baked beans, and cucumber/beet salads. 

After moving into our tents, we spent the remainder of the day getting to know the camp. Snow started to fall in heavy wet flakes as we finished dinner. The temperature dropped to the mid 20’s, but I was perfectly comfortable in my down sleeping bag. 

April 11, 2013

Rest day in Lobuche Base Camp

SpO2 = 88  RHR = 75

It is easy to take simple things for granted. The basic act of washing one’s hands is one such thing. You can walk into almost any public restroom in America and find hot water, soap, and paper towels provided gratis. There will also be light, and functioning private toilets. It is a mistake to assume any of these will exist when visiting a restroom in Nepal. If there is a sink, there is not necessarily water. If there is water, it will most certainly be cold.  You learn to carry soap and a small towel on your person. 

So imagine the sublime joy I experienced that first morning at Lobuche Base Camp when hot water came out of the spigot of the cooler at our camp hand washing station. It was 6 a.m.  Fresh snow had covered our camp, and yet the kitchen crew had already filled the cooler with hot water. What is more, there was a fresh bar of soap and clean towel at the ready. I choked back tears of joy as I washed my hands a fourth time. Seized with the purpose of a Disciple, I wanted to spread this good word, waking tent after tent of the unclean.  Sure they had all used Purell and it’s package purports to kill 99.9% of germs, but we all knew it was that .1% germ that had sickened us and probably propagated like Starbucks franchises during our sleep. Who would not gladly surrender much needed rest to receive such information? In the end I did not wake anyone, instead choosing to accost people as they emerged sleepy-eyed from their dwelling.  

April 12, 2013

A second rest day in Lobuche Base Camp. 

SpO2 = 90  RHR = 73

Our first case of the Khumbu Cough came forth on this day. This is a dry incessant cough believed to be brought on by exertion in the dry cold air of greater altitudes. Our best defense is to breath through a buff, especially at night, and avoid overly strenuous pacing when on the move. That said, it is likely 70% of us will have contracted Khumbu Cough two weeks from now and will not be rid of it until returning home many weeks hence. 

This was a true rest day. Unlike yesterday, there was no acclimation hike. Most of us took advantage of the sunny weather and did laundry. The kitchen crew provided large bowls of hot water to this end. A colorful display of garments were then left to dry on rocks and makeshift clothes lines while spontaneous games of Frisbee and Hackusack commenced. 

Swept up in the spirit of cleanliness, I decided to shower and shave. A tall narrow tent had been erected with flat stones placed for a floor. A large bowl of hot water was provided with a ladle.  Under such circumstances one comes to understand how little we actually need to bath. I treated myself with a clean change of clothes and felt as shiny as a new dime.  

Our camp sits at the base of Mt Lobuche (elev 19,600 ft). It is our first round acclimation objective. We will trek to Everest Base Camp (elev 17,500) tomorrow and spend two days acclimating before returning here and mounting our attempt on Mt Lobuche. One of the earlier IMG teams left here yesterday for Lobuche High Camp. We watched them all morning through binoculars, sharply defined against the steep white flanks, as they summitted under perfect conditions. It was thrilling to see climbers on the mountain plying their craft. We chattered excitedly, eyes cast skyward, deconstructing the route as  we fixed our own ambitions several days from now.

April 13, 2013

Trek to Everest Base Camp: Elev 17,500

SpO2 = 76  RHR = 90

The seven hour trek to Everest Base Camp took us through the dusty and unremarkable villages of Lobuche and Gorak Shep. One member of our party began suffering the ill effects of altitude and so turned back for Lobuche Base Camp. Otherwise it was a pleasant day of trekking the higher Khumbu valley. Most of the route followed the same river valley that is fed by Everest snow melt. Snow still lay in scattered patches along the shady side of the valley. Our trail traversed the sunny side through grazed pasture lands that smelled of summer as the day’s warmth awakened the low cropped grass. At one point my I-pod randomly chose the song Mellisa by the Alman Brothers. It was the perfect sound track.

We wandered the glacial moraine to the area near the Khumbu ice fall staked out by IMG.  Lunch was served and camp chief (Big Boss) Greg Venovage greeted us. Greg is a tall affable man with a quick smile and quicker wit. He is a veteran of Everest expeditions and sports the kind of physique that says so. You could bounce a quarter off his chest and it would ring all the way to the ground. 

The Punja ceremony to bless us and our equipment

After lunch we moved into our tents.  We each have our own two-man tent to call home for the next many weeks. This may sound like a luxury, but having a small piece of personal space is vitally important when it comes to keeping one’s mental balance during such a protracted measure of time. I unpacked a few things, but was already getting the headache that typically comes with moving up to a new altitude. I drank a liter of water and took a short nap. Feeling better, I then hung some photos I had brought along; My Fiancé Lin, my boys Trevor & Chase, and my Mom. 

Several large ice falls in the surrounding hills woke the camp that night as spring inched a bit closer.  I pulled on my down clothes around 3 a.m. and stepped out of my tent to look at the sky.  The brilliance of the stars easily challenged a thin crescent moon and the pale yellow light it cast on Everest. A monument in the center of our camp crackled with fire as prayer flags reached out into the darkness in every direction. “I am here,” I thought. Having spent so much time thinking about this climb and the experiences it would bring, the moment felt surreal. 

The first part of any Everest expedition is getting to Everest Base Camp. While this can be quite enjoyable, it is not without it’s challenges. But Ty and I made it in good health and high spirits.  If anyone reading this post has considered a trekking experience in Nepal I would, in spite of the fore mentioned challenges, strongly recommend it. It is a magical experience that will take you away from everything you know, and pleasantly haunt you for some time after. 

April 14, 2013

Everest Base Camp: Elev 17,500

SpO2 = 79  RHR = 85

Myself and Mingma Chhing

Today we were gathered before the climbing Sherpas and each assigned as team mates for the duration of the climb. The process of matching Sherpa and Climber remains somewhat mysterious, but for however it may work one thing seems clear; I won the Sherpa lottery. I have been paired up with Mingma Chhing, ten time Everest Summiter. He is a senior Sherpa and quite often seems to be the guy in charge. We got to know each other while going over my equipment. Like myself, Mingma has two boys.

The expedition then spent some time practicing crossing ladders with crampons on. I noticed Mingma stepped forward to study my technique and gave me an approving smile when I was done.

Myself crossing a ladder

April 15, 2013

Everest Base Camp

SpO2 = 85  RHR = 74

We spent a few hours training today on our ice techniques. Under the watchful eyes of our Guide Max, and our companion Sherpas, we scaled a small ice face near camp using crampons and ascender, safety leashes and figure 8 descenders. Everyone performed well and it felt good to finally be doing some ice work. Tomorrow we start our first acclimation rotation, leaving EBC for Lobuche Base Camp and the climbing of same. 

A rest day in Phariche

April 9, 2013
SpO2 = 87  RHR = 69

There was a haze of smoke filling the second floor hallway as Ty and I walked to our room last night. There was no concern of fire as the smell immediately identified itself as burning yak dung. Trust me on this; it has a distinctive odor.  We debated opening the window in our room but decided this was just as likely to invite still more smoke in. Lacking other options, we sat on the floor eating hershey’s chocolate bars with almonds while watching episodes of The League on my laptop. Our room is at the far end of the Himalayan Hotel, abutting the Yak pasture. All night long the casual clang of metal bells spoke to the nocturnal grazing habit of the Yaks. Yet it was not unpleasant. 

Myself and several others experienced intermittent breathing last night. Also known as Chain Stokes Breathing, I have written about this in earlier posts. The net effect of intermittent breathing is that one stops breathing for a brief period during sleep, then wakes gasping to recover from the deficit. The first time it happens it is terrifying, though not especially dangerous. At this point in my climbing career it is little more than a nuisance. With the benefit of another day of acclimation here at Phariche I should have no episodes tonight. 

By morning it was cold enough in our room that Ty and I released steam-engine plumes of frozen breath from our sleeping bags. I grabbed my laptop and headed down to the common room, knowing the stove would already be cranking out heat and hopeful I could post a blog entry before the hotel’s modest WiFi was overwhelmed. It took an hour to complete what would have been a 5 minute task back home, but the kitchen brought me a cup of coffee and the windows were filled stark white mountain peaks. The post went through, as I hope this one will too. But it will likely be several days before I am able to post again.  If you care to fill the gap, you might check out the blog from my climb in Antarctica at maurovinsonmassif.blogspot.com

Several of us took and acclimation hike after breakfast this morning. With the objective of teasing our physiology higher, we climbed an adjacent hillside up to 15,000 feet and lounged around taking in the view.  I began standing stones on point, as is my custom.  A few team members took interest so I offered a brief instruction, then dispensing them to challenge gravity with balance. 

Over half of our expedition is comprised of active duty Air Force members. Collectively, the various members of this Seven Summits Team have topped out on six of the seven summits. Like myself, they are here to see if they can “Touch ‘em all.” If they are successful they will be the first U.S. Air Force team to do so. Several members are pilots, flying everything from F-16’s to Hercules cargo jets. Others are Special Ops members. Two are Medics, and a few others are involved in operations. It has been such an pleasure getting to know these people, and though I am not one to gush patriotic, I must say I am proud that individuals of such caliber represent my country. Word came yesterday that a comrade was lost in Afghanistan a few days ago. The tradition of raising a glass in his honor followed dinner. The civilians among us were generously included in this ritual.

Trek to Phariche

April 8, 2013

Phariche; Elev 14,000 ft. 

SpO2 (Blood Oxygen Saturation %) = 84

RHR (Resting Heart Rate) = 76

I celebrated my arrival in Debuche last night with a shower and shave (300 rupees or$3.80). It felt incredibly good. I was reborn, renouncing my stench and a beard that was not worth keeping. When a shower can be had in this part of the world the water is heated by a low-flow on-demand unit mounted on the wall. The instructions will invariably caution that you not manipulate the dials. So the temperature you get is the temperature you shower with. In Debuche the temperature was a satisfying hot. But there is not an unlimited water supply. You are typically given 7 minutes of flow, so organization is everything. As none of the rooms or bathrooms in the Guest Houses are heated, I like to set everything out before disrobing; bar of soap, shampoo, wash cloth, towel, razor, and shaving cream.  I also arrange the clothes I will put on after. Then I choose an up-tempo theme song to sing (“Milly, make some chilly”) and start the water. The flurry of activity which follows would probably impress a NASCAR pit crew. 

Sherpa bread has become popular among my fellow team members. It is a flattish baked good about the size of a salad plate. Sherpa bread almost always arrives fresh-baked from the oven. Add some honey and you have a bit of wonderful. 

The trail narrowed a few miles out of Debuche. As well, the stone paths of earlier miles turned to dirt. A cool wind greeted us as we rose above the tree line, but this was fare tender for the astounding vistas of the Himalayas fronting us on all sides. Everest stood out more prominently with each step. I allowed myself a few looks, but just a few. From here Everest is too massive, too intimidating and I cannot allow it to get into my head. 

We paused at the village of Pangmusche for the customary Buddhist blessing of the expedition. Lama Geshi greeted each of us with a shawl and orange string placed around our necks. He prayed for each team member, then lightly bumping his forehead to theirs in a traditional sign of love. 

We pulled into Phariche around 2pm. The stone structures of this village stand defiant of the barren landscape around them. The wind blows. The dust flies. Piles of Yak manure are heaped against each building, drying to the point when they may be used as stove fuel for heat. But the gathering room at our teahouse is warm and inviting. Measuring 30x50 feet, the perimeter of the dining room is furnished with carpeted benches facing inward.  Tables and chairs are arranged next to them. There is a stove in the center of the room with another row of benches set close in a C pattern. The Sherpas typically occupy these warming benches.  This far up the valley electricity is expensive, so most hallways are unlit.  Even the dining room enjoys the illumination of just a few bare incandescent bulbs.  But the cheerful banter of occupants hailing from varied and distant lands weaves a colorful auditory tapestry which is vibrant and pleasing.

Trek to Debuche

April 7 2013

Myself passing through a rhododendron forest.

Debuche; Elev 12,530 ft. SpO2 = 92  RHR = 72

Four of us set out from Namche this morning, accompanied by Pasang Sherpa.  We settled into a methodic pace under sunny skies, glad to be moving on.  The first hour of trekking traversed a long high hillside, through rhododendron forests with the first pink buds just now opening. There were white pines, juniper, and prickly barberry shrubs. I was listening to an album of Native American cedar flute music on my I-pod, feeling good. Just soaking it up. 

I cannot say enough good things about this trekking trail.  Much of the path is hand-placed stone. When the terrain becomes steep there are typically stairs made of stone. The path is wide enough for Trekkers and pack animals to pass comfortably, and an amazing array of retention walls have been built to maintain what is the only highway up the Khumbu valley. As well, the trail is remarkably clean.  Garbage and recycling bins certainly help to make this so, but more important still is the sense of stewardship shared by the people of the Khumbu Valley and those who visit it. It is a pleasure to walk through this beautiful place.

The trail gained about 1,000 feet of elevation, then descended to a tiny village where we took lunch and filled our water bottles. I enjoyed tomato soup and a yak cheese sandwich. Both were quite tasty. Ty and I treated ourselves with Cokes ($4 each).  We then set out for Tengboche, a hilltop monastery in route to our next lodge in Debuche. 

The path to Tengboche consists of a multitude of switchbacks, gaining 2,000 feet of elevation. One member of our party suffered through each of these. He is only halfway through the bug that has been passing among our corp and probably should have stayed another day in Namche. But, like the rest of us, he was anxious to move on. 

Ty at the Tengboche Monastery

The Tengboche Monastery, is a fort-like feature looking out over the entire valley from its perch at 13,000 feet. It’s entryway is flanked by prayer wheels so large it takes more than one person to turn them. At one point there were four of us working on the same wheel. The ornate facades of the building are contrasted by stone walls made from tablets carved with sacred buddhist teachings. We rested for a bit, but did not have time to investigate further. I hope to do so on my return in late May. 

We descended down to Debuche and the Rivendale Lodge. Ty, who is a huge Lord of The Rings fan, explained the reference to me. I had thought the name was borrowed from the Harry Potter series. But that was Griffindor  ...which is nothing like Rivendale.  I would like to be more excited about this, but never much cared for either series. Sorry. In any event, Rivendale (the actual one), is much nicer than the lodge we stayed in at Namche. We even have an electrical outlet in our room! “Yippee Skippy,” I exclaimed upon discovering it. “Did you just say Yippee Skippy,” Ty asked.  So I guess we are both geeky in our own way, and this is complimentary geekdom is just one part of what makes us a good climbing team. 

Many thanks to the Readers who wrote in with advice on avoiding the various bugs dogging our trek up the Khumbu. As per their recommendations I will avoid those food items likely washed in compromised water, and consume those things cooked to the brink of carbon. I will also continue to develop new means of not using my hands. Sure, I increasingly resemble one of those River Dancers, but some of those who laughed initially are now spending a lot of time in the loo. Suffice it to say they are not laughing now. 

Better.

April 6, 2013
Namche: Eleve 11,350. SpO2 = 92  RHR= 72

Ty and I both woke with improved health. My G.I. troubles have passed and I feel 100%. Ty was able to eat half a donut I brought to him from a bakery in the village that opens early. Later he came to breakfast and managed some scrambled eggs. Our team left for Denboche an hour ago. Ty and I are hanging around Namche another day so he can gather more strength before going higher. We are not alone. Last night two more members of the team came down with symptoms much like what Ty had. Counting the others who have already run the course of this bug and the G.I. ailment, about half of our team has been stricken ill. It is a rough start. 

We talk amongst ourselves about what can be done to turn the tides of our besieged health. Most agree we cannot wash our hands anymore than we already do. I carry a bar of soap and hand towel with me at all times, and usually follow that with Purell for good measure. Of late I have taken to using my feet instead of my hands whenever possible. I open doors with my feet. I pull out chairs with my feet. I flush the toilet with my knee. I have never been a germophobe but find great empathy for those who are, as well as anyone without arms. 

Still, the weather is beautiful. A sunny day in the mid sixties will make for a nice walkabout later.  Ty and I will take a few pictures, do a bit of souvenier shopping, and find somewhere clean to get some lunch. Tomorrow will be a better day. We plan to press on.

Second Rest Day in Namche

April 5, 2013
Namche: Elev 11,350 ft. SpO2 = 91  RHR = 63

It is common to encounter intestinal bugs on expeditions. As well, any cold or flu one member picks up is virtually assured to be visited upon the other members of the Team. Knowing this, we have all washed our hands compulsively as well as using hand sanitizer at each meal. It is a fight worth fighting, even though we have been told 90% of us will become sick at some point during the expedition. 

IMG maintains their own Base Camp operations at Everest and is purported to do an excellent job of controlling food and water cleanliness there. As well, the company maintains a lower Base Camp at Lobuche, and has enjoyed similar hygiene success at that location. But there is little that can be done, aside from said hand washing, to manage the exposure of expedition members to sickness while trekking through the villages of the Khumbu Valley.  One of our team members came down with flu-like symptoms in Phakding. He remained there nursing his health for an additional day while the rest of us pressed on to Namche. Since then four more of us have come down with symptoms ranging from Intestinal Bugs to Flu. Ty was up much of last night with fever and nausea. I am fighting an G.I. bug. Very little fun. We will both probably be much improved in a few days, but might give ourselves another day in Namche as the rest of our team moves on tomorrow. 

There are reports from Waves 1 and 2, ahead of us by several days,  that many of their climbers have likewise fallen ill in route to Everest Base Camp. Most have had to resort to Z-packs of antibiotics as Cipro has proven insufficient. As beautiful as the villages of the Khumbu certainly are, it seems were are running something of a biological gauntlet.  

Still, the weather was stellar today and I enjoyed taking photos around Namche.  I came across a site being prepared for the construction of a new Guest House. The excavation had exposed two boulders the size of cars. There is no heavy equipment in Namche, the likes of which might remove or break up such obstacles. So a crew was busy with hammers and chisels chewing away at the rocks, then harvesting the refuse to make stone blocks for the eventual construction of the building. They were systematic and patient. My money is on the workers.

After a tasty lunch of Sherpa Stew (rice, clear broth, potatoes, carrots, onions, and yak meat) we were invited by a researcher from Queensland University to participate in a study of Everest Climbers. We completed several puzzles and questionnaires which seemed to measure our personality traits and attitudes about risk taking. We wore heart monitors. One test involving math was timed. The scoring of the results was structured in such a way that we could accept a certain payment of $25 for our participation or engage in various probability scenarios that might reward a higher sum. Jenni, one of our IMG Guides, took the largest haul, pocketing $68. This is probably a good sign. I walked away with $49. 

I called my Mom today. It was good to hear her voice. She was very excited and, as is her custom, had several prepared questions for me.  My Mother has come a long way since the early days of my climbing. Back then she argued tirelessly to rid me of whatever madness was driving these ambitions. We have spent much time talking about my various climbs before and after. In the course of these discussions my Mom has become better informed about the risks and risk management. While she would certainly prefer I not climb high summits, she has come to a place of accepting this as part of who I am. 

A rest day in Namche

Sunrise on the Himalaya

April 4, 2013

Namche: Elev 11,350 feet. SpO2 = 93  RHR = 74

I woke at 5:00 a.m. feeling fully rested and restless. I love mornings, and the thought of wandering the empty stone alleys of Namche was just too tempting. I pulled on some clothes and eased out of our room. I had noticed a sign in the lobby the day before informing guests that the doors would be locked at 10:00 p.m. “So don’t come back later than 10:00” it counseled. I understood how literally this was meant when I came upon a large timber thrown across metal brackets on the inside of the hotel doors. I removed the timber and let myself out. 

A soft hue of pre-dawn light was settled upon the snowy peaks above. The shops were shuttered. A lone black cow starred me down from the other end of the alley. No people moved about. Very few windows shown light. I climbed higher up the terraces, taking the uphill fork whenever the path split. There were pastures and gardens, one-room homes and brightly painted prayer wheels. A man in a yellow jacket emerged from one teahouse with a tripod and camera. He had set them up by the time I passed. It seemed likely he knew something I did not, so I lingered for a moment. The day’s first light suddenly grabbed the tips of the highest peaks around us. Magic. 

I called my son, Trevor, in Chicago from the dining room of the lodge. It was marvelous to hear his voice and share a few of my experiences. He told me about his school work and thoughts he was having about joining a fraternity. There are many advantages the Everest Climber of today has over Sir Edmund Hillary. I count this as foremost; the ability to hear the voices of loved ones while so far away for so very long. 

Though acclimatization requires us to stay in Namche today and tomorrow, we nevertheless will tease our physiology higher with day hikes. After a breakfast of apple/banana pancakes we set out on one such sojourn today, our objective being the Everest View Lodge, approximately 1,200 feet above Namche. Japanese investors built this magnificent Guesthouse on a hilltop with it’s own airstrip. The rooms are pressurized with oxygen piped in so high-end guests may fly in from lower elevations without suffering the discomforts of altitude. It has a stunning view of the Himalayas, including our first sighting of Mt Everest. 

I spent a bit of time writing in a Namche bakery after returning from our hike. Guy Manning, from my Antarctica Team, came in with his team for lunch and I was introduced to them. Guy's wife is accompanying him as far as Everest Base Camp. I had heard much about her during our Vinson Massif climb and it was good to finally meet. I left the bakery and, a short bit later ran into two team members. While we chatted there in the alley a tall figure walked up to say hello. It was Mike Roberts, my Guide from the Mt Elbrus climb in Russia. He and I had been in contact recently as the local newspaper back home sought permission to use a photo he had taken during that climb. I knew Mike would be leading a Team for Adventure Consultants on Everest this season and sooner or later we would meet up. It was good to see him. Mike is probably my favorite of the excellent Guides I have had the pleasure to climb with. I look forward to catching up at Base Camp. 

Trek to Namche

April 3, 2013

Namche; Elev 11,350 feet. SpO2 = 90  RHR = 90

We set out from Phakding this morning at 8:30, blessed with clear skies and kind temperatures that soon encouraged trekkers to zip off pant legs and skinny down to T-shirts. The Khumbu Valley narrowed a few miles into the trek, the trail then scaling steep switchbacks. We would gain several hundred feet, then cash it in as the route descended to a suspension bridge down low. Our Team spread out quite a bit as each person dealt with the hills at his own pace. There were times I was all alone on the path. I felt excited by this. Though I knew at least one Guide was always behind us, sweeping stragglers along, I could kid myself that I was treading hallow ground as a pilgrim on his solitary quest. 

At times the path would take me through tiny nameless villages of five or six stone houses.  Two little girls played hopscotch on a grid scratched in the dirt. An elderly woman turned garden soil with a wooden hand trowel. Sherpa men sat on the front porch taking morning tea as the first direct rays of light touched their world. When we made eye contact I would offer “namaste’, to which they would reply the same in a quiet voice. 

I had called Lin on my cell phone before leaving Phakding. Just hearing her voice filled me with joy and I found myself smiling as i reflected on it. I was playing our conversation back in my head as the trail started across a high suspension bridge perhaps 150 feet long. The river was crashing over massive boulders far below and the tattered remains of many prayer flag strings stretched out horizontal in the powerful wind passing through the canyon.  I looked up into the small window of sky above. A snow-capped peak taller than anything I have ever seen consumed much of that window. I could tell by the shape it was not Everest, but thought it must surely be something close to that scale. I would later learn this was a paltry 19,000 foot mountain. As intimidating as it was, Everest will be half again it’s height. 

The final four hours to Namche required 2,000 vertical feet of tight switchbacks. But we took it slow. This combined with stunning views of Ama Dablam passed the hours pleasantly, even while working.  Soon we eased past women scrubbing laundry by a stream and up into the horseshoe-shaped caldera where Namche is built among the terraces of steep hillsides. 

Namche probably has better electricity than Kathmandu, where sudden blackouts are common.  Unlike the other villages of the Khumbu, which must rely primarily on solar power, Namche enjoys the fruits of a hydro-electric facility built several years ago. This has made possible the proliferation of Guest Houses, Tea Houses, Internet Cafes, Pubs, and a myriad of other services aimed at the needs of Trekkers and Climbers. It is the last stop for anything important one may have overlooked in his kit and all major brands of climbing gear are proudly represented.  

Namche

We took our rooms at the Khumbu Lodge, a humble establishment with enough history to boast “recommended by Jimmy Carter” on its restaurant menus. Indeed, a photo of the former President standing before Ama Dablam hangs in the dining room. I paid 300 rupees ($3.50 US) to use the shower, which was adequate enough to accomplish the basic purpose, though I doubt Jimmy Carter would have recommended it. I even shaved, using a razor for the first time in many years. This expedition is too long to let myself go  ...as I have on others. After dinner with the Team, Ty and I turned in for the night at 8:30, tired but feeling good so far. 

Phakding

My first turn of a prayer wheel.

April 2, 2013

Phakding: Elev 8,691 feet. Sp02 = 93  RHR = 68

I woke at 3:00 a.m. with a busy mind. There were a few good pictures I had taken the day before and wanted to load them onto the blog. After leaving Kathmandu I would not likely find the bandwidth to do so, and we were leaving early for Lukla. I took my laptop down to the hotel lobby and spent the next 2 hours building out the entry from the day before.

The flight to Lukla was smooth. Clear skies afforded our first views of the Himalayas, jagged and white.  After forty minutes the nose of the plane dropped as it took aim at the infamous Lukla airstrip, an abbreviated tarmac cut into a cliff at 9,500 feet. The strip is perpendicular to the cliff, thus eliminating the option of aborting any landing attempt. This creates an incentive to set the plane down as early as possible, yet too early is just as problematic as too late. For a moment we all went silent, watching the cockpit window fill with cliffside, then runway, then cliffside. The wheels chirped and the thrusters  reversed in combination with heavy-handed braking.  We had arrived. 

We settled into a sunny courtyard at a nearby cafe.  I ran into my good friend, Guy Manning, there. Guy was a member of my Vinson Massif team in Antarctica and, like myself, has come to attempt Everest. I recall the topic of Everest coming up while we were still in Antarctica. I said I was not sure if I would climb it, to which the typically quiet Guy piped up “Oh Dave. It’s obvious!” Guy will be climbing with the excellent British outfitter Jagged Globe. A British ex-pat now living in the Cayman Islands, Guy has summited the high points of Africa, South America, Antarctica, and Europe. We caught up with each other over a cup of tea.  It was nice to see a familiar face in such an exotic and unfamiliar land. 

Our Team set out for the village of Phakding in short-sleeve weather. There are no motorized vehicles, or even bicycles, on the stone footpath that strings together the many villages of the Khumbu valley. We share the road with Donkeys, Yaks and Sherpas carrying loads of all manner. Indigenous rhododendron and magnolia are in full bloom on the hillsides. I listened to Scottish guitarist Tony McManus on my I-pod as we strolled past terraced gardens and stone walls. 

The Team spread out along the path as each member found his own pace. I would find myself walking next to someone and strike up a conversation. We would chat for a bit until one of us stopped to take a photo and the other continued on. In this casual manner we formed a meandering river of trekkers, replete with back-eddies and faster water. At times I listened to music. Other times I listened to the babbling broke of dialects around me. 

We arrived at the Sherpa Farmhouse Inn in Phakding in the late afternoon. The simple room Ty and I shared was unheated. There were two twin beds and a bare incandescent light bulb hanging from the ceiling. The Proprietor explained there were only 3 working toilets at the Inn, and they did not work particularly well. We were instructed to place toilet paper in a waste bin instead of flushing it down. All of this might be off-putting if not for the simple fact it was still much better than tent camping  ...and this was Nepal. The dining room at the Inn did a fine job of turning out dinner for the Team. I enjoyed a Yak steak and Sherpa salad, which is an assortment of quartered onions, cucumbers, tomatoes. 

A rocous thunderstorm rolled up the valley as we settled into our sleeping bags. We tried to watch an episode of the Discovery channel's Everest series on my laptop, but even this topic was no match for our exhaustion and we both fell fast asleep.  

Kathmandu

Kathmandu: elev 4,518 feet. SpO2 (Blood Oxygen saturation %) = 98  RHR(Resting Heart Rate)= 72

We landed in Kathmandu late last night. Ty and I were the final two members of wave 3 to arrive. A local representative of IMG, Mohan, met us at the airport, helping us gather our duffels and navigate the chaotic swell of humanity. He then adorned us with carnation necklaces and showed us to a waiting van. Mohan seemed happy in a way that was probably intended to communicate we should not be alarmed by what happened next.  The van leaped out into a sea of honking horns and sputtering vespas.  Headlights came at us from every side, veering away a moment short of impact. Store lights blurred past my window. It was loud, dusty, and everything you have ever seen in movies about this part of the world. Under normal circumstances I might have engaged myself in the process of offering urgent counsel, but I was tired from flight and did not understand the language this traffic spoke. I told myself "this is Nepal" and took to studying my flower necklace. 

The entire team gathered for the first time this morning.  All together there are 22 of us. Some are along for the trek only. Others are climbing peaks other than Everest. But about 12 of us have ambitions for the world's highest summit. I will enjoy getting to know each team member. 

Ty and I spent the afternoon picking up some last minute items around Kathmandu.  Two team members showed us around the city.  One of them is from New York, the other Perth, Australia. IMG paired them up upon arrival as both share the objective of reaching Camp 4 on Everest. One would think they have been life-long friends, such is the playful camaraderie already fostered between the two. They took us to a non-descript third floor office where we could buy a local cellular sim card for $8, and 9 hours of talk time for another $28. Advising Ty and I the local network would "lock out" our smart phones even with these items, our new friends then led us to another place where we could each purchase a brand-new Samsung flip phone for $20. This might be a good math exercise for my friends at Meridian Middle School; Figure out the total cost per minute of talk time and compare that to the rate our existing international calling plan would charge ($2.29/minute) to call home from Nepal.   Ty called his wife (my sister, Noelle) and found the sound quality to be excellent! 

Kathmandu is a busy, noisy place. But the hectic pace of cars and motorcycles is somehow contrasted by a patient people, who I found to be warm and friendly.  Aside from crossing the street, I feel quite safe moving about the city by myself.  Almost everyone speaks enough english to get by. For this I am grateful, given my complete lack of Nepalese. The influence of Buddhism is present all about, as incense burns just around the corner and I am greeted with "Namaste".  People wearing colorful sarongs come and go from old-world temples, as uniformed children climb a pile of bricks on their way to school.  

We will fly to Lukla early tomorrow morning and begin the trek to Everest.